Hey man, just wanted to thank you for that rarest of things, someone posting the fix in a long running forum thread! Had the exact same issue with my car, previous owners had lived with it for ages. I noticed it was always a few hours after rain it kicked in. 10 minutes with a flexible wire to clear the very blocked drain and no reoccurrence of the issue! Really chuffed, thanks again.

That’s great, thank you. Really appreciate it.

Those two statements are self-contradicting Richard. If it's been rebuilt, it should have been tested and guaranteed, therefore there is no need for it to not be giving the right signals out. Silly question - have you checked the alternator is actually charging properly? If it isn't then it will cause all kinds of problems. Strangely i have a 2005 car that only has flash codes, it's a JDM vehicle so has no requirement for the OBD-II system. There is a 2-pin plug somewhere behind the dash that needs to be bridged, ignition on then count the flashes on the EML and decode them with a chart. However, i don't have the chart or know which 2-pin connector i need to bridge yet - not needed to thankfully! Italian tune-ups are definitely the first port of call with a high emissions vehicle IMHO, usually before the test i try to give my own cars a bit of a blow-out just to be on the safe side.

The car runs but is really rough. Fuel has been checked and the pump is working perfectly.The ECU did have water ingress and was sent off to be rebuilt. The problem is the voltage coming out. Both should be 5 volts but the EM10-21 has 12 volts coming out and the EM11-08 has no voltage so it is certainly an ECU problem that no one seems to know how to fix.

How ridiculous is this to remove a pollen filter - no wonder they get left and cause damp/odours. I dread to think what the JLR labour charge is for doing this? I recently noticed a musty smell in the cabin so thought I'd look for the pollen filter. Positioning seems to differ slightly on various models and I've never been able to find a YouTube video for my model (2023 MY). There are videos showing that access is possible from above for some models under the bonnet but I had a good look and couldn't even see the housing. Basically you need to remove the glovebox. After removing the nearside end panel from the dashboard and 8 x T27 torx bolts and 3 trim clips later I got it out. Remember to switch ignition on and set a/c to recirc to raise flap allowing removal. I did not need to remove any centre console trim which some videos show. As you can see it was in dire need of replacement. I've ordered one from Euro car parts for £12.82 - collecting tomorrow morning. I hope I can remember how it all goes back in! My local JLR dealer can't be contacted by telephone for parts - you have to fill out a form and they get back to you. If they ever do I guarantee the part will be a bit more than £12.82. Anyway, now I've bitten the bullet I'll be replacing it every 12 months. This one looks like the original and is over 3 years old, didn't look like any of the bolts/clips had been removed previously Wish me luck - I might be back tomorrow asking for help

Yes indeed, a lot of cars of that era had limited or even flash codes if you were lucky, going back to the purely mechanical systems where they needed fettling like a carburettor. Oxygen sensors are replaced needlessly by a lot of garages without determining what the customers' driving style is really like - it was a country garage that served the local community, predominantly elderly folk who would use the car once or twice a week at most. Going for MOT obviously the emissions would be high but rather than putting an additive in the fuel and giving it an 'Italian Tune-Up' to clear it out in which case it would then register within the correct threshold. Another one is if there is the slightest exhaust leak or crack in the manifold then this can draw unregulated air upstream of the Cat/O2 sensors, etc but this is crazy as a Gas Analyser is usually 5 gas and one of those is oxygen which as you know should be reading zero % if its as it should be - but here's the crazy part, they only need to check and then sell an exhaust system rather than a sensor. I do like your logic with swapping the O2 sensor leads for the MOT 😁

That was actually a typo Trevor, it should have been LH-Jetronic as the LE didn't have proper designated fault codes, it was the LH that brought that in. Oxygen sensors are a bone of contention for many, they only have a 10 year service life but many continue long after that, although their response diminishes and as such, fuel consumption and driveability suffer. Again, ECUs can be a bone of contention, too many people condemn them simply because they don't understand what is actually happening at any given time. The old computer acronym of GIGO definitely applies to ECUs - Garbage In, Garbage Out. Guilty as charged! I cut my teeth on a Japanese built-under-licence Bosch L-Jetronic system badged as Hitachi on a Datsun Skyline. Turned out that had been misdiagnosed by the local Crypton Tuning Centre (offering a free tuning check up) and a new air filter solved its woes. I actually saw a Lambda/Oxygen sensor fail during the MoT emissions test once. Started off about 0.1% and rapidly climbed to 9.8% at which point the tester pulled the probe. I returned home, checked which sensor it was, unplugged it and bridged it to the other bank and returned for the free retest the next day. I later renewed the sensors as a pair (V6 engine) but in the meantime had an MoT pass.