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Welcome to the Jaguar Owners' Club!

Membership is completely free, and our community is built by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts. We’re a proudly independent, non-official club, so all the help and opinions you’ll find here come directly from members with real experience of Jaguar Ownership from REAL people.

Join the club! Become part of the community!

 

Random Topics this week

Latest Posts from the club!

  1. I’m afraid that’s not working, but thanks. When I saw a YouTube video of accessing underneath I was relieved but there is literally no visible access on drivers side from underneath sadly
  2. Have you tried 'bouncing' the bonnet - e.g. find a suitable (not flimsy) part of the bonnet where you can use the palms of your hands across where the catch is sticking and try to bounce it down and also lift under the edge to see if that releases it. Sorry forgot to add - wedge something on the latch release lever so that it is pulled back as far as it will go and holds that position. Once the bonnet is up then lube the latches with WD40 and then also spray grease
  3. Hello I’m fresh new member to the X type world and really falling in love with it a lovely 2008 diesel sport trim with wonderful interior I want to replace oil, and also replace crankshaft pulley, however drivers side bonnet won’t release - it did on test drive?- and I can’t see nothing but a very full bonnet from underneath with torch. I’m stuck?
  4. By slight oil leak - I would always define it as either a leak or a weep, sounds pedantic but a weep is no more a worry until it becomes a steady leak of oil. Understandably, there shouldn't be anything coming out from the engine, fuel, oil or coolant but occasionally they do emit fluids but I would keep an eye on it and if you see drops of oil on the floor then take it in to get it sorted
  5. It's the front blind motor drive / work gear at fault, or binding 'feet' for the actual blind... However, it's a known weak point on the X351.. Mine has just gone also, and I I have ordered a complete Cassette repair kit as JLR call it, which is the motor and drive gear as a complete unit. Simply replacing the motor is false economy as there is a plastic spacer somewhere In the assembly that keeps the motor and drive gear together. Over time, this wears down, creating a gap, giving the symptoms you are experiencing. Later part revisions changed this plastic spacer to metal. Changing out the drive motor and gear involves dropping, but not removing the headliner, some wiring connectors and removal of 3 small T25 torx screws and a bolt holding the motor assy runner to the rear of the sunroof cassette.. that then slides out, replace everything in reverse. It's involved, I won't lie, and can take a few hours to sort out. hope this helps
  6. 😀Last year I purchased a 2008 2.7 Diesel XJ Sovereign with 74,000 miles, nice car but has a slight oil leak which I’m told is the rear crankshaft seal, anyone recommend a reliable garage in south yorks ?
  7. Hi Terrry and Jim Jim Evans here I got a minor advisory on my XKR last MOT and after my experience with my 2000 year X308 which turned into brown-coloured lace!!! Underside, with a showroom exterior shell I am sensitive to the winter. I sent the mail you appear to have responded to here. I looked at both Lanogaard and Waxoil, and just from words uttered, Lanogaard is coming out on top. However at the last breakfast meet of my division of the XKCC some members mentioned some pretty horrific costs for Waxoil. Can anyone recommend an agent for either treatment and or at what price I should expect to pay. Having read all the Lanogaard info, and knowing the vast history of Waxoil, has anyone got any recommendations? My car was done 2-3 years ago (?Lanogaard) but I would like to get an uptodate on process rating, and know what I am going to plan forward with in the years to come. Mine is off the road in End Oct-early Nov under cover, for the winter (no garage) on trickle charge now, permanently wired. Any help mucho valued. Spyder Jim Evans )








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